Gunung Tahan

This is actually a rewriting and recollection of my previous articles about Gunung Tahan hiking trail that consist of several parts, by rewrite and combine it back in single article would make it easier to read and for  yourself  to enjoy it. Gunung is a word in Bahasa Malaysia that mean "mountain", so Gunung Tahan also commonly referred to as Mount Tahan.

Gunung Tahan & the whole world

"It is not the peak that matter but the journey is" No trail suit more with that phrase other than trail of Gunung Tahan from Kuala Juram, Merapoh to Kuala Tahan if you put that literally. Sure that meaningful phrase meant a lot more, but one hour stop on peak just a little cut from six days of amazing journey.

Gunung Tahan with height of 2,187m above sea level is the highest point of Peninsular of Malaysia, located 4°38′N 102°14′E / 4.633, 102.233 in Pahang area of Taman Negara National Park Malaysia / 4.633, 102.233. This national park with total area of 4,343km2 encompasses three states of Malaysia –Pahang, Kelantan and Terengganu. The unspoiled pristine rainforest in this area aged million years and house many species of protected flora and fauna. All visitors to the park and climber must get permits from the Department of Wildlife and National Parks or locally known as PERHILITAN, plus climber need to hire guide licensed by PERHILITAN and ratio for maximum of 12 climbers to a guide apply. As precautionary measure and park management purposes at anytime no more than 48 climbers are allowed to climb the mountain.

Gunung Tahan could be climbed trough 2 popular entries point, either through Kuala Tahan or through Kuala Juram, Merapoh. Return trek of Kuala Tahan would take normally seven days for average climber and Kuala Juram trek would take 4 days. One way trail from Kuala Juram to Kuala Tahan would take six days (near 78km). There are groups who complete Kuala Juram to Kuala Tahan trail in less than 4 days but that would be a lot of hiking, eat light, overtime and lack of sleep. Other people have their own objective but you are advised not to exceed sunset time limit as you are in the midde of wild animal habitat which active after dark and any possibility of encounter that could risk safety would bettter be avoided. The trail would take climbers through dense lowland towering tree of rainforest, rivers crossing, muddy valley, bonsai garden, granite trek, vast squares of beautiful high altitude plant and oops no snow. The Trail of Kuala Juram to Kuala Tahan is unique that you would not find the same with other trails in peninsular Malaysia.



 Tahan Mountain Range

How to be there

Taman Negara has several entries point, but two most popular are through Kuala Juram Sungai Relau Merapoh Kelantan and through Kuala Tahan Pahang. While Kuala Juram entry point popular as shortest trail to Gunung Tahan even though it also do have Kelah Sanctuary and offer activities such as bird watching, Taman Negara Kuala Tahan are more busy with activities and better equipped. Taman Negara Kuala Tahan is well known for it tourist destination, got a 5 star hotel, a lot more adventure and close to nature activities package await to be explored.

Journey from Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Tahan for 247km would take 3 hours and 40 minutes while to Merapoh, Kelantan for 267km would take around 4 hours. To Kuala Tahan visitor can take express bus from Pekeliling Bus Station straight to Jerantut, alternatively you could buy ticket to Temerloh as it have more buses and from there continue to Jerantut. From Jerantut to Kuala Tahan, there are two bus companies servicing the route currently. There are train line services connecting Merapoh and Jerantut but using train services to Jerantut from Kuala Lumpur are not advisable as that would take a lot of time unless the train journey itself that you want to experience.

Field reports/ log
Entry point

This expedition consists of 10 climber, 9 men and 1 cute lady. Age ranges from 13 years old to over 40s. Organized by Kereh member; ajiz, mono, din & yusri, other climbers (khalid, abg lan, fauzan, jo, bro Munawar & Mun jr.) invited through mountaineering online community – http://www.gunungonline.com/ We met for the first time at Putra Bus Station Kuala Lumpur on Friday night of 25th July 2008. Even though met for the first time, we have no worry of teamwork, dynamic and fitness of this group as all are experienced climbers inclusive of 13th yr old Mun Junior who already complete Trans Titiwangsa ranges with bro Mun senior. To ease preparation as all expedition member come from various part of Malaysia, ration and accommodation was set up separately by fauzan with abg lan, Bro Mun sr. & jr, and the rest form one group (khalid from Kulim, Abg Lan – Kuantan, Bro Mun – Kedah, Ajiz – Sabah and the rest from Kuala Lumpur) . Kechik was there that night to give support and deliver new spider stove ordered by Khalid. We take bus Mutiara Express journey to Town Gua Musang and we will stop halfway at Merapoh Baru Village 30 minutes before Gua Musang Town. Our bus departs at 12.15am and arrives around 4am at a Restaurant which also a Rest point for Bus Mahligai Express. The restaurant has closed by that time but we ask permission to rest at its surau before our contact person meet us tomorrow morning.

At Perhilitan Station Sungai Relau

Day 1

Our Contact arrives before 7am with 2 pick up trucks. First thing first – breakfast at nearby village Felda Merapoh Baru. Most of Gunung Tahan Guides for route from Merapoh come from this village. There is no rush this morning as expected trekking time for today would take just around  6 hours. Back on pick up truck we head to our entry point Perhilitan Station; around 3km from main road. Things to do at Perhilitan office - register; – body, clothes, plastics, bottle, basically everything what you take in there have to be take out, divide ration and change for trekking attire. At 10am after all settled we back on 150 horsepower Toyota hilux for another 14 km journey to Kuala Juram-our starting point. The journey for the next six days starts from here. My feeling mix up; excited on scaling peninsular Malaysia highest mountain with all the tales about it and at the same time anxious of challenge ahead. To prepare our body for the next few hours of physical ordeal we ensure that we do enough warm up; and with heartfelt prayer we off hitting the trek with hail of chuckle and giggle. Trekking is about getting together and sharing laugh anyway.

At Kuala Juram

The journey goes through lowland dense jungle and several river crossing. As trek covered with high tree canopy there will be less windy and whether could be hot and humid. The trek could be muddy in rainy season and expect more leeches waiting around, so choose your attire and shoes accordingly; rubber shoes or wrap up sandal is wise choice especially to go through those rivers crossing. After 5km we arrived at Kuala Luis at 1.30pm, from here Lata Luis is for another 6km. We arrived at Camp Kor our campsite for the night at 4.30pm. Not to our advantage our arrival was welcome with light rain and situation become almost dark even we still got few hours before dark. The condition at the campsite is little bit muddy make it a little bit uncomfortable. Light rain keep pouring consistently throughout the night, at least we get a tight sleep that night.

Day 2

Enough sleep last night make me feel fresh this morning, a good start for a long and tough journey that we going to face today. Distance from Camp Kor (750m) to Bukit Botak (1943m) is 13km with elevation of 1193m gain in single day is the steepest part up to the Gunung Tahan peak. We all wake up early for breakfast. Wet condition slows us down to pack up or just good reason to lazy up a bit, but what got to do is got to do otherwise we will way out of schedule. Today trekking would take around 10 hours for average climber. We start trekking around 10am; we hope to arrive at Bukit Botak before dusk, the last camp before Gunung Tahan peak. Whether that achievable would depend on our pace and management, but considering average climber factor with a simple math calculation means we will arrive late after dark definitely.

Kubang Camp

The journey begin with a river crossing and the trek ascending consistenly. We arrive at Permatang Camp at 10.44am, last person arrive at Kubang Camp at 1.30pm. We have lunch of Pita Bread sandwich and nice hot lemon tea here. Water point is quite far for around 100m and descends a bit to another campsite. After prayer, enough rest and chatting of nearly one hour the last person leave Kubang Camp at 2.47pm.

We reach Belumut camp at 3.30pm. There are sign of different group camping here last night. Camp Belumut located at stretch of muddy valley and at the camp itself is quite wet all year round likely. What special here is it seems that the place is habitat of certain species of bird. The sound of bird chirping is constant and loud and a couple of chirpy is quite tame to move around our team members. The bird would pick up bread thrown to them and have it in the bush. It is more like food feeding session. Next time you here remember to set aside a cup of rice for them :) . Puncak Pemandangan at 5.50pm, Bonsai Camp at 7.00pm. From here we could see the front group of Khalid, Bro. Mun & jr, and Fauzan on the way up trek to Bukit Botak. They are more than 30minutes ahead of us. From Belumut Camp and certain part of Camp Bonsai to Bukit Botak the trek is quite muddy. Finally the last group reaches Bukit Botak Camp at 9.00pm Yeeehaaaa.

Puncak Pemandangan

We set up our tent (a modest build of fly, ground and sheet to cover opening) parallel to a small bush so that the opening is covered and to avoid heavy wind blowing directly inside. The water point is running water flowing from nearby hill with 2 small pools. The upper pool is strictly for drinking water whiles the lower one for bathing. After dinner we just keep inside as cold wind is blowing hard outside and the temperature here could be quite low and based on experience of previous climber ice formation could formed on metal utensil leave on the open.

Bukit Botak is perfect site for camp site; with even surface, nearby big enough water point, nice view and good toilet with view :). But it is quite open area with small tree and so that it is quite windy. If we arrive little bit early before dusk this camp site going to be perfect place to view sunset.

Bukit Botak Camp Site

Day 3

We wake up on one fine good morning, scenic view stretch more than 200 degree, layer of greenish to azure mountains tiles with pale fog and blue sky in the background. Breezy wind that morning is plus point to already perfect setting. On the other degree of East side sit imposing barren hill on the way up to the peak of Gunung Tahan, so there is no sunrise view from here.

Our destination today is Gedong Camp or Gunung Gedong that would take around 6 hours. The plan is from Peak of Gunung Tahan, we would have lunch at Bukit Berapit and proceed to Gunung Gedong Camp. As expected trekking time today is not so long and excitement to trek along the most beautiful and unique part of the trail make us little complacent about management that would make us suffer later. We leave Bukit Botak at 10.30am with camera ready to snap photo as much as possible. Sun start scorching hotter as it move to the west. Journey today would go through mostly small bonsai tree and small part of muddy valley with higher cover tree just before Bukit Berapit. After Bukit Berapit the vegetation back to all small bonsai tree and porous granite soil as we ascend back to Mount Gedong. The sun shines hot but cool wind makes us just feel right. With not much cover from tree shade we all exposed directly to the elements. It is wise to wear enough protection, long sleeve shirt cap and sunshade, sun block cream is advisable as long as you not fancy of burn skin and retina. My good morning towel is indispensable and serves well as cover beside sweat soaking tools.

At Gunung Tahan Peak



all the way from Peak to Mount Gedung, with fog passing by it just like walking through the clouds



We reach Gunung Tahan Peak one hour later and spend 45 minute at the peak to snap photo and commemorate our feat. After all it is the peak that is the main target, wish to spend more time there but the Gunung Tahan peak is just a stop in the middle of this trail. Mono is the last person to leave the peak as we descend toward Gunung Gedong. Wind sometime brought fog moving along our side and covering the gully. Small nepenthes and orchids are common here and vegetation no higher than one foot for the first 1km down. If lucky you would find raw diamond among porous soil and granite along this trail.

Estimate time taken and distance cover for Merapoh-Gunung Tahan Trail                                          

(Altitude)	Distance (km)	Time (hour)
1.Kuala Juram (309m) to Kuala Luis(306m)	5	1 ½
2.Kuala Luis (306m) to Lata Luis (558m)	6	1 ½
3.Lata Luis (558m) to Kem Kor (750m)	2.5	1
4.Kem Kor (750m) to Permatang (874m)	2.5	1
5.Permatang (874m) to Kubang (1406m)	3.5	3 ½
6.Kubang (1406m) to Belumut (1493m)	1.5	1
7.Belumut (1493m) to Bonsai (1705m)	5.5	3
8.Bonsai (1705m) to Bukit Botak (1943m)	3	2
9.Bukit Botak (1943m) to Gunung Tahan (2187m)	2.4	1

From Peak to Bukit Berapit would take 3 hours and 2 hours more from there to Mount Gedong. Here I realize the problem, we will trekking past lunch time for 2 hours more. It means suffering if you still trekking without lunch at 3 o clock. The worst is no water point along the way until a spot near Bukit Berapit. At that time even rainwater in small puddle looks tempting enough, but the scene of frog tadpoles doing freestyle refrain me from it. It is fraught to replenish depleting energy level but my entire tidbit already finish on the way up to Bukit Botak yesterday. I trekking along with ajiz while Mono, Khalid and Yusry strolling further back. Whatever food we have all finish hours before Bukit Berapit including ajiz last chocolate bar. Thanks.. Jiz!

Bukit Berapit

The last group reach Bukit Berapit at 3.30pm, it is actually intersection between trail to Padang camp and Gunung Gedong camp. Bro Mun the earliest to arrive already set up his fly for shade while waiting for the rest of the group. After simple bread and jam we leave for Gunung Gedong at 4.00pm. 1 hour and 30 minute later we reach a spot of World Ward II plane crash. Based on the wreckage it is possibility that is a small fighter plane. The plane hit mountain wall from east side just below the spot the main wreckage tossed. The debris littered up to nearby hill that still laying up to these days. Finally all member reach Gunung Gedong camp at 6.00pm.

At World War II Plane Crash site

Serial No. Of The World War II Crashed Plane

Mata Air, water poodle that flow from "lumut"

At Bukit Botak and Gunung Gedong Camp, walking pole found it new use as tent’s fly pole other than walking assistance, while anyone not suppose to cut any tree here, but one big reason is actually there are no high enough tree here qualified to be a tent pole. Water point here is just marvelous there is a small flowing water beside big boulder 30m front camp site, it just enough for basic need a big No for bathing. West side down the big beautiful valley on right side of trail to Padang Camp there are big flowing beautiful waterfall. This just amazes me from where such big water is flowing while we are already on top of mountain plain. It would be exciting if we could trace up source of the stream but that would be another new adventure, but it’s not so difficult to comprehend that the stream is flowing from unique eco system of the mountain. Area of mountain’s top from Bukit Berapit to Gunung Gedong is formed of thick small plant and the soil is covered with damp plant and weed. During cold night the weed and damp soil would soak moisture, fog and water droplet. This will form a steady water catchments area and release steady flow of water and grow bigger as it move downstream.

The Spirit! Strange rock formation of face



Gunung Gedong Campsite - Mark by small clearing on top.. Vegetation here consist of small bonsai tree at just waist level height which is a character of montane forest and the soil was wet with "lumut" abd algae that soak water and moisture  during night time and slowly release it to form small stream





Gunung Gedong



After taking bath, cleaning ourselves, changing to warm clothing, next main thing is having coffee while enjoying the sunset. The beautiful view, serene and peaceful scene that makes the experience so sweet… or it’s the coffee?

From dusk till dawn

Day 4

Viewing sunrise at Mount Gedong is superb. The sun appears just beside a hill on the left and above line of cloud over the horizon on the right. Breakfast beside the green valley of Mount Gedong must be the most sentimental ever, not exaggerating but that what I truly feel. With fresh cold air blowing and soft sunlight radiate, time ticks over not pass in a meaningless way. We really enjoyed the moment till situation become warmer, when fly become a little bit drier, we pack and ready for journey to our next campsite – Camp Teku.



sunrise





Breakfast at Gedong Camp



Pantat Lesung waterfall

We start trekking at 9.00 am. Less than 10 minutes trekking down we hear humming sound of waterfall strong enough to make us wonder from where it come from. Its amazing that the sound was brought by the wind from big waterfall at nearby mountain range. That is the amazing Pantat Lesong waterfall, this waterfall must be the highest waterfall above sea level ever in peninsular Malaysia. One girl – Umai of uitm student who lost in this park for more than 2 weeks in 2008 has find her way through stream/ valley of between these two mountain ranges. It flows straight from plain of mountain top. The other popular waterfall in this area is 4 step waterfall. Trekking to 4 step waterfall would take 4 days go and back from trek near Camp Teku. Trekking to this waterfall is very rare thus the trek usually covered by growth and not properly maintained. Every attempt to trek to this waterfall would be like opening and clearing for a new trail that make it more risk for trekker to disoriented and lost. Based on information from ranger at Kuala Tahan Park, that several recent attempts to reach the waterfall has failed. Hard to find guides who willing to take trekkers to the waterfall because of its challenge and mystique.

Today trail would be the steepest part of the whole Gunung Tahan trail. It would cover Gunung Reskit, Gunung Tangga 15, Gunung Pangkin and several campsite of Pangkin Bawah campsite with near waterpoint and Wrays camp. To pass Gunung Tangga 15 trekker have to go through 15 steel ladders as what the name is “tangga” (ladder). We have lunch at Camp Pangkin Bawah and reach Camp Teku at 4.00 pm. Today is the most mental part of the whole journey especially to go through dense jungle from wrays camp to Camp Teku - the long Gunung Tahan trail covered with high tree and its humid and basically no wind blowing through. To reach Camp Teku which is beside a big Tahan river is a salvation. Do not trek alone as this trail would cut through a lowland rainforest; that would mean a lot of big wild animal roam the area.

Day 5

Today journey would have 4 river crossings. The rivers is quite big and at normal level some river is at waist level deep, with strong current crossing of the river could be quite difficult and become dangerous if water level raised little bit higher. It’s important to pack accordingly to prevent rations and things from getting wet. One way is to use big heavy duty plastic bag as cover inside back pack. One thing to consider when using backpack raincover during crossing is river water would seep into inside cover and collecting water. We have lunch at Camp Putih one of Campsite beside big river. Kelah and Sebarau fish is abundance here but fishing is prohibited as this is inside conservation area. One and half day descending from Mount Gedong we have to ascend back Mount Rajah (576m) on the way to Camp Tengah. We reach Camp tengah at five pm and decided to camp there for the night as continue trekking to Camp Melantai means we have to trek overtime through lowland jungle which could be dangerous.

Camp Tengah has horror stories among trekkers and natives people here. But what special about this camp is its water point. Its water taste sweet! It’s natural and I can’t explain how it tastes that way but it’s true. It’s weird? You all have to taste yourself to believe…

one of big tree on Gunung Tahan trail

Day 6

This is the last day of trekking but the longest distance ever for more than 16km through Lowland Dipterocarp Rainforest. The decision not to continue trekking during night time yesterday was wise one for me as I found out a lot wild animal traces along the trek to Camp Melantai. New Elephant dropping means that the trek is one of Elephant migration route along Tahan river valley and it could be a big group. We reach campsite Melantai at 11.45am, after light meal and hot milo we continue trekking to Kuala Tahan. The distance between Camp Melantai to Kuala Tahan is 12km. The temperature become hotter, humidity induce sweat drench my clothes like i'm just taking bath with it and my inside thigh and crotch start to hurt as continuous rubbing cause blister. May be it’s because of short tight that I wear inside my track pant no longer tight enough to protect my skin. Lesson – invest for good and new tight if you going for a long trip. Finally we reach Kuala Tahan at 5pm. Welcome back to civilization!!!…. What a wonderful Gunung Tahan trail....

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